“Surrounded by history, bordering the future, the state of being. Right here, and right now. Dubrovnik.” - a statement by the Adriatic Luxury Hotels chain. Well, it kinda gets you at ‘hello’.
And, in truth, it does sum up modern Dubrovnik. Steeped in history, yet focussed on placing itself firmly on the tourist map. Dubrovnik was founded in the first half of the 7th century by a group of refugees from Epidaurum, today’s Cavtat, a coastal town not far from Dubrovnik.
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"The spectacular old town has walls that run 2 km around the city. These walls are punctuated by five gates and each gate has an entrance that leads to the walkway along the walls... |
Lord Byron christened it the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and George Bernard Shaw thought it was ‘Paradise on Earth’. It was even mentioned in the film 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea with Michael Caine were one of the characters was dreaming of a fairy from Dubrovnik.
The spectacular old town has walls that run 2 km around the city. These walls are punctuated by five gates and each gate has an entrance that leads to the walkway along the walls. From there the view of the terracotta roofs and the islands in the distance is remarkable, as are the towers of the churches and the dome of the Cathedral.
The walls have served to protect the city over the years, most notably in 1991 when the city was under siege during the Balkan War. The scars from the shells are now barely visible. They add to the charm of this medieval gem. This Unesco World Heritage Site is frequented daily by the local people. In fact there appears to be a draw to the old town, almost like a curse will befall the local people if they do not visit at least once a day. Lavender stall holder Goran stated “we meet our friends or family in or around the Stradun every day, it’s almost like a ritual”.
It is easy to see why that would not be a chore. The old town is immaculate. There are an array of cafes, restaurants and shops along the alleyways leading off the main street. The architecture has been preserved; the shop names are on lanterns above doorways. Museums are in abundance if you want to escape the torrid heat of summer.
July and August play host the oldest cultural festival in Croatia, The Dubrovnik Summer Festival. The event showcases opera, ballet, classical music, film and theatre. In the 1989 festival Daniel Day Lewis’s Hamlet was staged at the top of a turret at the Lovrjenic fortress. Many Dubrovnians still reminisce about the magic of that evening.
Morgan Freeman presented his film Evictus at this year’s festival in the Rectors Palace. The Rectors Palace lies between the Church of St Blaise and the Cathedral. It used to be the seat of the government in the old republic.
When actors and aristocrats go to Croatia, they go to Dubrovnik. The majestic Excelsior Hotel has hosted many of them. It even has a glass room where many of their photographs hang; Elizabeth Taylor, Roger Moore, even Margaret Thatcher.
The hotel first opened its doors in 1913, and has been renovated several times. In 2000, Goran Strok acquired the hotel and turned it into the centrepiece that it is today. Nikolina Vicelic, Director of Corporate Communications at Adriatic Luxury Hotels, which includes the Excelsior, explained: ‘We are working hard to improve the destination, so far it is working, sales are up 30% on this time last year’
The rooms are furnished to the highest standard, there is a modern touch yet the old feel of the hotel is still retained. The attention to detail and guest service are exemplary. There are four restaurants each offering different menus to satisfy every palate, including sushi. The business suite and conference rooms are elaborate and the hotel offers extra services should they be needed; such as bodyguards. The Comfort Zone is designed for ultimate relaxation.
Beside the Excelsior perched on a jutted out rock lies the Villa Agave. Kevin Spacey opened the Villa in 2008 and Morgan Freeman stayed there during the recent festival. It was once the residence of famous archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans (1875-1882) and its opulence and uniqueness are endless. Very much like its namesake the agave flower that only flowers every 40 to 100 years.
Further down the coast on the Lapad peninsula sits the Dubrovnik Palace hotel. This boutique hotel (308 rooms) has also had a £30 million facelift. It boasts its own collection of 200 original artworks, a dive centre and a full service spa.
The views from the balcony are of the spectacular Dalmatian Riviera where at night you can see the blue dots shining from the water generated by the night divers. The local cuisine remains true to the oceanic history of Dubrovnik. Sasha the head chef from the Restaurant Vapor at the Hotel Bellevue prepares seafood daily. It is served on the terrace overlooking yet another splendid Adriatic island. Other specialities include Dalmatian ham and truffles.
As the city becomes more popular with tourists some draw backs are expected. Nikolina Vicelic advises: “It is best to avoid the old town at certain times of the day when cruise ships arrive and hundreds of people descend onto the main streets.”
If you can’t beat them join them. Dubrovnik is surrounded by sea and islands. There are many sailing tours and island trips to suit everyone. The sea and boats appear to be the finger prints of this historical world-class destination.
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