by Geoff Fulton

Every man needs at least one elegant, high quality suit. Whether for work, or a special occasion, one suit, set apart from the rest, helps create a sense of occasion; and a little extra self-confidence if you need it.

With so many outfitters offering a bespoke service, and charging a king’s ransom for the honour, you may wonder if you’re getting your eye wiped as your card is swiped. European Business Express asked Geoff Fulton, from established outfitter Smyth & Gibson, to help sort the cowboys from the dapper dons.

“Not every bespoke tailor offers the same quality of service or product. In recent years, bespoke tailoring has had its greatest renaissance since the Medicis. Flourishing Florentines would have identified the prosperity of a man, and his family, not only by the colour of their cloth, but the excellence of the stitching."

"Today, price is not always an indicator of quality tailoring. The diminishing kudos of global fashion brands means wearing your jacket in reverse to let the label do the talking. But on the flip side, mass production of men’s suits has diminished the excellence of tailoring.”

“In real terms, and most men’s budgets, a very good made-to-measure service should incorporate a raft of alteration requirements to help gents get a great fitting suit. At Smyth & Gibson, our made-to-measure service is classed in three categories: size, style and cloth.”

“Your size, posture, figuration and body shape all change the way a suit fits, but they don’t tell you this at Very Famous Italian Suit & Co. Off the peg suits will best-guess your dimensions, and most men will either be a ‘short’, ‘regular’, or a ‘long’, a measurement which depends on the length of your back and arm."

"A bespoke tailor will go much further than best guess. A top made-to-measure service will measure your chest, and a ‘block’ jacket will be tried on, in either a short, regular or long length. Once the best size has been established then there are approximately six jacket measurement points that can be altered to make it an exact fit.”

“The style of your suit is a very personal preference. A three button jacket and trousers with a fitted waist and tapered leg will outlast any fashion trend. The sleeve cuff should have at least four buttons, and a single vent will give a leaner look. Experienced tailors will offer single and double breast lapels, as well as straight or slanted pockets, with the option of an outside ticket pocket. Two or three button jackets can come with a single vent or double vent.”

“If you are broader in the beam, opt for a two button jacket and only ever close the top button. On the trousers, the front can be flat, or pleated, and brace buttons and cash pockets can be added.”

“Keep the style simple and let the quality of the cloth and cut shine through.”

“Cloth is perhaps the best expression of character and perhaps even public position - it really is a very personal matter of taste. A smooth gabardine wool, or mohair, will give provide sheen. Hopsack or a Panama weave, and herringbone or diagonal weave class, all offer distinguished aspects. Smyth and Gibson use fabrics of 100% wool or cashmere with no synthetics, and that, if you need to ask, is really a test of cowboy tailors – do they keep it natural?”

“As a practical accent to linings, choose mauves, lilacs, purples, to compliment grey, black and blue wools. Blues and browns, especially those in the copper and bronze palette work well with navy wool. A navy suit is the ultimate canvas, something the Medicis would appreciate today. 

Get Measured - Jacket Measurement Points

1. The half back is altered along the line from bottom of hind arm seam to centre back seam.
2. The jacket length is altered from the bottom of the collar melton to the hem of the back seam.
3. The waist is altered along the centre front edge to the centre back seam.
4. The sleeve length is altered evenly from the crown at the shoulder seam down to the cuff hem.
5. The shoulder length is altered along the seam from the edge of collar melton to armhole seam.
6. The armhole can be eased out also.

Trouser Measurement Points:

• The rise. This is measured from the top of the waist band to the top of the inside leg.
• The seat is measure from the bottom back seam to the pocket point.
• The thigh.
• Inside leg is measured from the crease at the top of your inside leg to the bottom hem. It is important how the fabric falls on the shoe and how much break you prefer (the crease of fabric that sits atop your shoe).